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Not all the sights in Calabria were pre-20th century. This newstand can be found on a side street in San Pietro in Guarano. We are told that as children my father and grandparents would trek from their farmhouses, perhaps by donkey and trail, up the steep hillsides for a visit to the bustle -- such as it was then in the early 20th century -- of San Pietro.

There's still not much bustle in this town of precipitous streets, perched way up in the hills, snug against the lowest clouds.