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We have come by way of Roma, Caput Mundi, the once World Capital, the Eternal City, but are just passing through. We push our way into our ancestors' homes. Here, we find empty wine barrels. Centuries of wine were made in this room, says Roberto, our newfound relative.

Here, he says, they would "jog on da' grapes." He points to a concrete basin in the small 2-story stone house where my great-grandfather, Michele Napoli, grew up, where my great-great grandfather, Pietro, also lived. Here Pietro brought his new wife, Caterina Vivaqua. Here is where they lived their secluded lives.