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I could learn to love Diamante, site of a road-trip lunch as two cars of relatives and friends head up the coast one day. The seaside town has invited artists and muralists to decorate sides of buildings, ground-level doorways and basement porticos. It's like an art museum had been blown up and the art blasted outward onto the city walls. The swoosh of surf follow you up into the narrow alleyways and steep labyrinths of the streets. Then, you round a corner into a cul-de-sac and the air grows still, smelling of cool stone and briny sea.

Then, it's back down to the waterfront to peer up and down the scimitar-shaped coastline. I live in land-locked West Virginia, so seas instantly hypnotize me. Dinghys and small fishing boats of various colors, all sea-wracked pastel blues, reds and greens, huddle on the sand

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